Colors, Textures, and Aromas of San Pedro Sacatepequez San Marcos

I have to start by saying that across Guatemala, we are going to find towns sharing the same name, just as this case, where in order to state the geographical difference, everybody calls this municipality “San Pedro Sacatepequez San Marcos”.

Using a combination of silk and cotton threads, the loomers in San Pedro Sacatepequez San Marcos create some of the most vibrant Guatemalan textiles, for instance, the women’s corte (skirt) is made using the jaspe (ikat) technique and yellow silk threads.
I found a good video that explains the weaving process, unfortunately, the producer restricted the access; so, if you want to watch it, please click this link.

I don’t know and I couldn’t find the appropriate information to tell you where the silk comes from and why they use it. All I can tell is that they say that the yellow silk has been brought to San Pedro Sacatepequez San Marcos since the colonial times.

What I can tell you with certainty is that the textile industry in this town and in some of the surrounding villages is a vital component of their economy. Almost every family has at least one loomer.

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In the original post, I included a video showing the shecas making process; however, it didn't work as expected, so I removed it. If you want to watch it, please click this link.
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The "just off the oven" aromas  in San Pedro Sacatepequez San Marcos come from the many bakeries where traditional shecas are baked daily (a variety of sweet bread). This bread is so distinctive of this town, that locals call themselves “shecanos”.

San Pedro Sacatepequez San Marcos, populated by Maya Mam descendants, was part of the ancient Camino Real (royal road), an important commercial route for the ancient civilizations that connected the communities settled between San Juan Ostuncalco and Chiapas.
Even though today is not our last day in San Marcos, it actually is our last day in the highlands, so starting tomorrow, we need to wear lighter clothes since we are heading to the Pacific Ocean region, or as we Guatemalans call it, la costa.

Huehueteco's Laborious Hands

At the beginning of our journey through Huehuetenango I mentioned that through my readings about it, I was very impressed. Now that  during these past two weeks , you and I have learned about its geography, geology, water resources, sustainable and responsible coffee plantations, traditions, culture, poetry, people, just like the couple from Colotenango in the photo above... Let me tell you,  I am truly amazed of how much more Huehuetenango has for us to explore, and how much more it has to show us, including a paleontological site. We definitely have to come back!

The diversity of Huehuetenango is reflected not just in the landscape, or the weather conditions, or the agricultural activities; the diversity of Huehuetenango is reflected as well in the handcrafts produced by the Huehuetecos' laborious hands.

Being a place populated by deep-rooted Maya descendants, the articles they produce are mainly utilitarian and unlike so many other places throughout Guatemala where handcrafts are massively produced, the handcrafts production in Huehuetenango, although diverse, is limited and maybe because of that, the quality is extraordinary and the designs are unique and beautiful.

Huehuetecos are specialists in glazed pottery, saddlery, stone carving, basketry, candle making. They also produce fine acoustic guitars and beautiful imagery. There are some silver and copper mines, which provide the raw material to produce jewelry and embossed, among others.

As for the textiles, a subject of my particular interest, the production of some pieces is even more limited because they make them almost exclusively for their personal use and some pieces are truly works of art.

Well my friends, I think this is it for Huehuetenango. Before starting this trip, my biggest concern was that I wasn't going to be able to guide you through this stunning territory but, we survived! Until next week, when we are going to visit San Marcos, which will be our last Department in Guatemala's Highlands and the end of the second chapter of our journey.

A Visit to Todos Santos Cuchumatan

I remember an article published by National Geographic several years ago about the horse race  that takes place in Todos Santos every year in November 1 to commemorate the Day of All Saints; all saints is the literal translation for "todos santos". Since then, I have been intrigued about this famous race and what it represents. 
My logical source of information, I thought, is the National Geographic Website, but to my surprise, I didn't find anything related to the race. So probably, my "several years" reference, actually means "many years"... Anyway, I spent some time trying to pick and choose pieces of information interesting enough to share with all of you.  

The "Skach Koyl" (as locals call the race) is much more than just a horse race, it is a festival that involves marimba music, traditional dances, food, and lots of liquor. 
The night before the race "All Hollows Eve" Todo Santos is alive with Marimbas, parties and drinking.  The race is a continuous point to point and back again, lasting hours as a test of bravery and endurance; however, riders having a drink  every time they get from one point to another is a requisite. After the first hour most of the riders are drunk and getting drunker, so it is not unusual for riders to fall off horses.
After what I have read and the videos that I watched, I think that this tradition might  be appealing to people interested in cultural anthropology or sociology, for whom  a visit to Todos Santos for the festival might just be a must.

To be honest, I couldn't find a purpose and the true meaning behind this tradition.

Personally, I will choose some other date to visit this town where, as far as I can see, traditional clothing -my weakness, is very much in use and unusually, the male costume is as eye-catching as the attire women wear.

Maya Textiles in Quetzaltenango

The textiles woven by  Maya descendants have long been appreciated for their beauty and sophistication. Using just a simple back-strap loom, women in Guatemalan Highlands create intricately brocaded blouses for themselves and clothing for their families. The textiles they produce are both, attractive and utilitarian.

But while these textiles can be appreciated solely for their aesthetic value, this is an inherently limited interpretation. Mayan textiles are much more than pretty pieces of fabric. The clothing worn on a daily basis communicates a lot of information about the wearer, including his or her social status in the community, his or her ethnic group, and the area in which he or she lives.
Hundreds of symbols have been identified in Mayan textiles. The weaver selects a combination of symbols, like those shown below, to portray a mythological drama, and that is why there are no two identical weavings.  From the left, symbol 1: diamonds represent the universe and the path of the sun (the largest diamond in the center) in its daily movement, from east (small diamond at the top) to the west (small diamond at the bottom); symbol 2: scorpion tails representing the lightnings; symbol 3: the Earthlord, God of the underworld; 4: a toad representing the singings; 5: the vulture, representing the legend of the renaissance after the great flood that destroyed the previous world.

When interpreted in that order, the drama unfolds: while the toad sings at the mouth of the Earthlord's mountain cave, the Earthlord's daughters fluff cotton that will be transformed into rain clouds by a bolt of lightning. The scorpion's spiny tail stings the lightning that attracts the rain and produces the flowering fields. 

The outfit to the left is typical of the clothing worn by women of Quetzaltenango, where some women continue to wear traditional clothing.

The huipil or blouse, is constructed of three panels of cloth. Where these panels are sewn together, the weaver embroidered multicolored flowers. This design is also continued around the neck.

The perraje or shawl, is woven of cotton and wool and serves multiple purposes. It can be worn around the shoulders on a chilly day in the highlands or folded and carried on top of the head until needed. In some areas, it may be used to cushion a load carried on the head, or it may be used as a carrying cloth to transport an infant or produce from the fields.

The corte or skirt, is made of cotton, and the fabric is typically woven on treadle looms using the ikat technique. This skirt is made of two lengths of cloth. The randa, or the area where the two pieces are sewn together, is embroidered with pink, purple, yellow, and burgundy embroidery. The darker area above the randa indicates that this skirt was taken in to accommodate a shorter person and later let out, perhaps as its owner grew taller.

The Central Market - Level 1

I think I already mentioned that this is one of my favorite places in Guatemala City, in case you missed it, I am telling you, again!
Remember that we are going downstairs from the street-parking lot level, so here we are, in the first level. This level, the one designed with tourists in mind, is full of small individually owned handicrafts stores and probably the first impression will be some kind of noise… which is the mix of different radio stations playing at the same time in almost each one of the little stores! Do not let this upset you, quite contrary, think of it as the perfect background for what is to come: textiles.
Guatemalan textiles are the most vibrant colors weaved in the most intricate patterns you will ever see. The best of all is that you can choose amid a wide variety of designs, to fit every taste and budget: fabric by the yard, table clothes, woolen blankets, bedspreads, you name it.
In addition to the music, you are going to hear some melodic calls: que va a llevar reinita (or mi rey)? Meaning literally: what would you like to buy my little queen (or my king)? This is Guatemalan people at their best! Friendly, smiley, eager to please you.
Take your time, enjoy and walk around, through every one of the aisles and feel free to explore. Rustic leather, silver jewelry, naif paintings, popular souvenirs are just some of the many other things you will find here.

Should you still want to explore the rest of the market? Come back tomorrow. I will do my best trying to tell you about the next level. In the meantime, please enjoy this slide show which contains more beautiful photos by galasdeguatemala.com.

Click on the Image to Start the Slide Show